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1/ Dujac vintage report 2005

There is much to be thankful for in 2005. This was a year during which I married Diana Snowden, my long-time girlfriend and our enologist; Domaine Dujac increased it's holdings; and superb wines were made. Much has already been written about 2005 Burgundies, with reason I might add. To draw a quick sketch, let us start with a look at the weather.

The winter was essentially normal for Burgundy, which is to say cold and wet, with very cold months of January and February. Temperatures stayed below 0°C for several consecutive weeks which killed off many pests and also helped decompact the soils.

Early Spring was wet too, which was fortunate in light of the exceptionally dry season that was to come. Budbreak happened at the very end of April. A small hail storm hit from the northern end of Nuits St-Georges to Chambolle-Musigny, but had little consequence beyond dropping yields in some of the vineyards. Flowering took place in mid-June, in very warm and dry conditions, which made for an excellent, even set. The warm weather had us concerned about a possible repeat of 2003, fortunately this was not the case. July and August were dry, but much cooler than those same months in '03 and a few showers helped the vines get through periods of potential water stress. It is possible that the 2003 drought forced the vines to grow more extensive root systems, thus "preparing" them for 2005. In any case, the grapes were beautifully healthy and evenly ripe when we began harvest on the 18th of September.

We enjoyed perfect harvest conditions and some of the finest grapes we have ever seen. Thick skins and small bunches for the reds, golden skins for the whites. We destemmed only a very little of just a few of the wines, (as it felt like the right thing). Extraction and fermentation were quick and most lots were pressed after less than two weeks. The wines were put in barrel shortly after and spent most of the élevage on their lees. Malo-lactic was on the late side, almost a full year after harvest. We bottled the red wines between January and early February 2007. Overall this was quantitatively a smaller vintage than 2004. Yields were down by a little more than 10% on average, but Morey Saint Denis village, Clos Saint Denis and Echezeaux were down by significantly more. This was mostly due to the Spring hail storm and to some replanting in the Clos Saint Denis and Morey.

It is hard to moderate ones enthusiasm for the 2005s. The reds have wonderful complexity, with luscious, rich, velvety tannins, terrific concentration, and a deep resonant minerality. All the attributes of great wine are there. My current feeling is that they are already beginning to shut down and that they are going to be quite austere in the next few years. These wines are seriously built for the long term and should have real longevity: over twenty years for the Grand Crus in good cellaring conditions should not be a problem.

The Puligny-Montrachet Dujac Fils & Père and Morey St-Denis Blanc Domaine Dujac are immediately seductive, with ripe aromas of honey, pear and flowers, and excellent texture. Initially, we feared that they might hover on the heavy side, but they are evolving beautifully in bottle, gaining in precision, bright acidity shining through as they shed their coat of first youth. The Morey St-Denis 1er Cru Les Monts Luisants will be released later. It has very high acidity which has slowed down its malo-lactic and will be bottled late. Please note that we are no longer producing any Meursault as our grape supplier has sold the vineyard from which we were getting fruit.

Jeremy Seysses 7 March 2007

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